A Chilean Adventure

A Chilean Adventure

I thought I would tell you about my latest escapade.  In the middle of February we went on holiday - to Chile.  We set off in our car and spent the first night in Cochabamba in the same hotel where we stayed when we first arrived in Bolivia.  I remembered everything about it - where the lifts were, the roof terrace and so on.  The next day our aim was to reach the Chilean border so we left early on the new road to La Paz climbing up to 3,500 metres above sea level as far as a place called Patacamaya where we had to leave the lovely new road and turn left heading for Chile.  So far so good.

Once we left the new road we were somewhat dismayed to discover that the main road to Chile was not so much a road as a dirt track, but we carried on anyway.  There were road building gangs at work.  Then the road disappeared - just a multiplicity of tyre tracks in the sand where truck drivers had obviously taken the most convenient route when it was raining.  We chose one and carried on.  

Not a living soul.  Very little in the way of vegetation, just sparse scrub.  Miles between one adobe hut and the next.  The track got worse - ruts larger, sandier.  We stopped  to ask some girls and a lady at a hut if this was the right way to Chile.  The girls ran away to hide and the old lady sat hunkered down at the door, impassive.  She could not help anyway because she only spoke Aymara.  Eventually the two girls, having wrapped themselves up in their cardigans and pulled their skirts down as far as they could, confirmed that the track in front of their hut, not the one behind which we were on, did indeed go to Chile.  

Worse and worse.  My dad got out at another hut where he could see an old man herding llamas a little way away.  At the sight of this bearded stranger  a clutch of little children scrambled off and hid in the hut, all darkness and misery.  When he reached him the old man was no use as a source of information because he was stone deaf and probably only spoke Aymara anyway.  Some distance later my mum got out and asked a lady with two young children minding their llamas.  Yes, right road but a long, long way to go.   On and on.  Worse and worse  - relieved only by the elegance of the llamas grazing on the sparse vegetation.  Then a dried up salt lake.  We carried on.  Nothingness.  Not a living soul.

We were on the point of turning back to Oruro and trying the road to Iquique the next day when a pick-up truck appeared out of nowhere - the first vehicle we had seen since we left the road-building team behind.   This was the old road to Chile but it was dreadful, they said, and we would do better to go back and try and get on to the new road.  We would come to a hut with tyres outside.  There there was a road to the left.  If we took that we would eventually come to the new road.  We took their advice.


In fact there was only one tyre outside the hut, empty except for a few chickens sheltering from the sweltering heat.  We stopped.  A campesino was walking in our direction.  Maybe he would know how to reach the new road.   He did.  He would come with us, so we gave him the front seat to act as guide.  Down the track, just as the men in the truck had told us, but the track did not last long.  Cross country. He had been walking all day long because he had come to visit a relative and was now on his way back home.  No schools here.  No doctor.  No nothing.  Survive or die.  Down a steep incline like a V which we thought we would never get out of - but fortunately we did.  The campesino got out at the place most convenient to him, rejoicing in his ride and informing us that we would soon reach the new road.

To cut a long story short, 10 hours after leaving Cochabamba we reached the Bolivian side of the border with Chile, a place called Tambo Quemado at 4,660 metres above sea level, and another 4 hours later we finally reached Putre, the first town over the Chilean border. There we found a place to stay and Paddy and I could have our dinner and a long drink.  It was a chilling minus 3ºC there but the cold was quite welcome really after the 35ºC all day long on the altiplano.  We didn’t sleep much because of the altitude which makes your heart race a bit but we were able to relax after our long and arduous trip.

After that traumatic start our holday Chile was terrific.  We travelled down the Andes towards the coast. The shining whiteness of the desert contrasts amazingly with the green oasis which suddenly appears at the bottom of a deep canyon.  We stayed a few days at Arica where the people in the hotel were very nice to Paddy and me and we could go for long walks on the beach every day, both morning and evening.

That was the most terrific things about this trip.  I had never seen the sea before so I had an exciting time swimming in all this water - once I got over the initial shock of lapping up salt water!  There was a lot to learn - how to calculate the rhythm of the waves so I could jump over them or run out ahead of them depending on the size.  Paddy doesn’t have any of these problems because he won’t even walk on the wet sand.

All the way down through Chile we stopped off at the most magnificent beaches.  One in particular I remember . It was called Playa Larga (or Long Beach).  We had a great game there because there were thousands of tiny red crabs on the sand and Paddy and I chased them until they sheltered in their holes.  On another beach at Caldera where we stayed for a few days we could watch the fishes jumping out of the water.  The could jump more than 3 feet into the air.  Amazing.  That was good fun, but this time around I didn’t go rushing after them.  I’ve learned my lesson after the heron in Chimoré.

In Santiago, which is the capital city, we stayed with friends who have a lovely garden so we could lie about around the pool.  Then further south we stayed with another friend who had a huge ranch where we went for long walks and ran around.

When we reached the south where the weather is much cooler and the landscape much greener we set up our base at Puerto Varas and from there we visited several beaches on the shores of Lake Llanquihue.  We went to Petrohué, a magnificent natural paradise where there are lots of woodland trails.  One of the exciting things there is the volcanos and the black lava runs which are to be seen everywhere.

One day we took the ferry to the Island of Chiloé.  On the crossing we saw dolphins jumping in the bay and lots of sea birds wheeling over the ship.  Then we made a testimonial trip down the first 50 kilometres of the dirt road which leads to Antartica.  


One flattering experience we had in Puerto Varas was one evening when we were sitting in the restaurant (Actually Paddy and I were lying under the table), an American girl who had just been on an Antarctic cruise with her mother, came over and asked if she could stroke us because she was missing her own dogs that she had left behind with her father.  She stroked us for a while and that made her feel better.  Paddy and I felt quite good after that.

On the way back we didn’t take the coast road as we had done on the southward journey but crossed the desert.  We saw mirages.  I always thought this business of mirages was a bit exaggerated, but it is absolutely true: as you look at the horizon you really think you can see water shimmering.  We went up into the Elqui Valley, another oasis in the desert, which is said to harbour powerful magnetic energy which relaxes the system and the spirit.   We certainly had a relaxing time lounging under the trees in the square.

To cross the Andes back into Bolivia we took a different road. After consulting with the customs department in Iquique we set off into the mountains.  Luckily we did not meet any other vehicles because the road over and around the mountains was a single track and, if we had met someone else, one of us would have had to reverse for miles to a spot where the other could cross.  That was lucky.  The good thing about this road was that at least there was a road to follow, not like the road to Tambo Quemado, so, although it was long and winding and tiring, it was not so stressful.  

I don’t know about you but I  really do think that I should be in the Guinness Book of Records!  How many other British-born beardies have been fortunate enough to visit as many places as I have?  I’ve crossed the Andes twice and I’ve crossed the Atacama Desert which is the most arid desert in the world (OK, OK, so I didn’t do it on foot but in the comfort of our car, but still .... ).  I travelled the length of Chile as far as the road goes and even went a little way along the Southern Road which leads to Antarctica.  I nearly went to a Rolling Stones concert in Santiago but at the last minute we decided that there would be too many people and we just lounged around in our friend ’s garden instead.  How’s that for common sense?

The trip was also good in a number of practical ways.  In the hot and steamy jungle, I am sure you will understand that personal hygiene is no simple task. No matter how hard we tried we always seemed to be plagued by flees and itches of one kind or another.  Paddy - poor thing - was much more prone to itches than me.  Anyway, the lower humidity and all those bathes in the sea were a beauty treatment in themselves.  Paddy did not escape.  He was brought in under protest and thoroughly doused with salt water.  I think he appreciated the results so did not protest too much after a couple of days.  I, on the other hand, needed no coaxing to go into the water.  Coming out was a different matter, though.

On the social side we also had a fine time.  In the jungle we were not allowed to associate with other dogs because, as I think I told you in one of my previous missives, they all had mange.  However, in Chile that was not a problem and there were lots of lovely dogs that I could wag my tail at and sniff around.  Once I got over the initial over-enthusiasm I didn’t frighten them all away!  I must admit that at the beginning I was a bit overwhelming, but you live and learn.

That’s it for this instalment.               Simon

THE GAMES DOGGIES PL

THE GAMES DOGGIES PLAY


You all know how important it is for us doggies to play and have our toys.  Well, before I came on this trip to Bolivia I put all my toys into my Mum's suitcase.  I brought a lime green tennis ball, a red rubber ball, a yellow plastic ball with holes in it and two "fossilised" marrow bones - very important those.  I also put in a rubber pull and a rubber bone.  Actually, putting it mildly, I am not keen on rubber toys (apart from balls) but they were arrival gifts from well-meaning friends and I couldn't very well snub them by leaving them behind, could I?

Since we´ve been here in the jungle I have added a few more trophies to the ones I brought.  I have got a worn-out blue bottle brush, a torn piece of llama skin that used to be a small rug, some offcuts of balsa wood from the fence which is nice and light to carry around and an old pair of Mum's shoes.  I keep all my toys in my bed and take them out at judicious intervals to play.  Basically I have two playing times: one first thing in the morning and the other one in the evening.  During the middle of the day the best bet is to find a cool spot and have a lie down.

My days start at 6:30 a.m.  Well, I would get up earlier really, especially now in summer (Here summer is your winter) when it is light at 5:30 but Mum says "Go and lie down now" so I oblige and wait till 6:30.  Then we get up and go for a walk to work up an appetite for breakfast.  I have gone off milk now and prefer yoghurt with active bifidus which is very good for your tummy (Just as well we live on a dairy plant)!  

After breakfast my major activity of the day begins.  I go outside to the garden that has been fenced in for me ( a Yuracaré Indian came and did it) and I sit up on the terrace.  This is a great vantage point and I can see everything that moves.  It is then my self-appointed job to warn of the approach of any strangers  - cows, people, cars, bicycles - especially the dreaded bicycle.  This is a most important task in a country as dangerous as this one.  Nobody approaches our house without my Mum knowing well in advance.  I do this till about 9am and then it is time to rest.

In the evening after dinner I have another bout of activity.  This is when we use my new-found toy which consists of an old cotton jersey tied to a broom-handle.  The idea is that it can be swung around and I run after it and try and catch it.  This is good fun because they change direction and then I have to do pirouettes in the air.  I am getting more expert at it every day, which is why the jersey is getting more and more ragged.  My Mum is not so good at doing this.  I have to wait for Dad to come home if I want a really good chase.  Sometimes he gives me a session before he goes off in the morning and before I start my vigilante session.  We are both very busy people, you know.

I would like Paddy to join in my chasing games but he only joins in if he thinks I am getting too much attention. Then he comes rushing up looking like he is going to play too, but the very minute I start racing around he just goes and lies back down again.  Not much fun that.  Well, it isn't really his fault: he never learned to play when he was young because he was rescued from the dog´s home where he spent all his puppyhood locked up in a pen.

It´s the same thing when we go to the river.  I love to rush in and swim around but Paddy won't even stand near the edge.  To give you an idea of how loathe he is to get his feet wet, he won´t even walk on the floor when it has just been washed.  I love doing that! - particularly when I have got muddy paws because then I can see my pawmarks making nice patterns everywhere.  There should be plenty of opportunity to do this from now on because the rainy seasons is about to begin - Yippee!

Saludos from far away

Simon

Simon

 

FRIGHTS ON A TROPICA

FRIGHTS ON A TROPICAL RIVER


10.05.1994


When we first arrived we stayed for a while in Cochabamba, which is at an altitude of 2,500m. That wasn't too bad, but you can't run about so much because of the altitude which tires you out sooner.  

Then we moved down to the Chapare, which is a tropical area at 300m. above sea-level.  It is hot and steamy here but, lucky for me, the house we are staying in has got air-conditioning, so I soon sussed out the spot (just under the dining-table) where you get maximum benefit of the cool air, and when things get a bit hot I just lie down there.  That's mostly in the afternoons.  In the morning after I've had my breakfast I like to go outside to bark at all these bicycles with people's bodies on top.  I really don't understand why they can't have legs like everyone else!  Flocks of parrots fly over my house every morning and evening.  They're a sqawky lot, but I like watching them.  The only problem is that I get a crick in my neck if I do that for too long.

At the moment the garden area around the house is not fenced in so I can't have much freedom yet, but I see that there is a pile of poles and things outside now, so it looks like they are going to put up a fence.  That will be much nicer because then I can chase my friend, Paddy, around the garden and we can have more fun.  The only drawback I can see is that maybe I won't be able to see all these funny creatures any more and then I won't be able to bark at them.  I'll have to mull that one over.

At weekends we go for walks up the river beds.  There are lots of rivers here.  They all flow north where they join the Amazon system.  I don't really know what that means but I hear them talking about it all the time and it sounds good.  The river beds are mostly wide but they are not always full of water except in the rainy season.  The rest of the time there are gorgeous white sandy beaches for running on.  At first we used to walk up a narrow little river with lots of shade under the overhanging trees, but it was quite far away and we had to drive over a dreadful dirt road with lots of ruts in it.  It was nice, though, because I could flop down in the pools of cool water and at the end of the walk we could visit a thing called a "maceradora" which is a pit they put coca leaf in and tread on it with kerosene to make cocaine paste.  They are illegal, of course, and this one has been put out of operation, but it was interesting to see it and Paddy and I got to romp among all the foliage.

Now we go to another river which is quite close by.  First of all we have to wade across at a ford just before some small rapids and then we get to one of those lovely beaches.  We walk up there for a while and after we pass a clump of vegetation I get let off the lead.  That's terrific: I can run like a maniac and then jump in the water just when I feel like it.  Have to be careful, though, because when the water level is low and the sand on the bank is still damp, if you jump too hard you sink in and it is like quicksand.  I learned that the first day and now I take things a bit more cautiously, because sometimes it looks dry on top but it is all soggy underneath. My Mum has lost two pairs of flip-flops already.  Paddy never has these problems because he HATES water and never even gets his feet wet.  Don't understand some guys at all!


Well, a couple of weeks ago I must confess I did a dreadful thing.  It was a Saturday morning, and the day before there had been a lot of talk about going for a walk to the river.  When I woke up I could see that it was raining torrents and I thought to myself that the walk was going to be off.  I was pretty pleased when I saw that my people were getting all geared up to go out. (The thing here is that it pours with rain but it isn't cold at all).  Off we all went in our nice roomy car (that's got air-conditioning too which is just as well).  When we got to the river even I could see that there was an awful lot of water there, so they decided to cross the bridge and try and park on the other bank so that we could walk down directly to the beach.  That was fine.  We managed to park and my Mum opened the door to put on our leads.  She told me to stay - and I did - but with all my hair she didn't manage to get the lead hooked on properly and when I jumped out I wasn't attached to the lead at all.  Well, I didn't think. I just took off - only problem was  it was the wrong direction.  I realized it when I came out of the trees and found myself on the road with two great big lorries bearing down, one in each direction.  My Dad let out a scream  (Poor Paddy got such a fright he just dropped down on the ground and didn't dare to move.), kicked off his sandals and started to run barefoot along the road.  My Mum tried to start the car because she knows that if I see her in the car without me I come straight to her  'cos I don't want her going off and leaving me all by myself.  But she couldn't because my Dad had the keys.  He went back, jumped in the car and came rushing after me.  Fortunately by that time I had realized I had done a pretty stupid thing and was running back as fast as my legs would carry me.  I'm sorry I did that, because the two poor dears were in such a state of shock that they couldn't even give me a row.  They were as white as the proverbial sheet and just flopped down on the ground with relief.  They do love me really.  

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After that I thought: well, there goes my walk - but no, they were so shocked I think they needed a walk to recover, so they put on my lead and we went to the beach where I could run and swim to my heart's content.   Quite often there's a great grey heron standing in the river and she was there that day, so I decided to bounce at her.  She flew a few yards up the river and stood in the water again.  I bounced at her again and off she went.  This time Paddy thought this was a good game too, so we both went chasing up the sands with Paddy egging me on.  This time the heron stood in the middle of a bend in the river, so, of course, Paddy wouldn't come in with me to chase her.  I had to go by myself.  

All of a sudden I could see that I was quite far in and there was all this muddy sand and I wasn't quite sure what to do about getting back out again.  What I didn't realize was that herons have big feet and don't weigh much so they can stand on this stuff without sinking in.  At first I thought my best bet was to cross over to the other bank, but my people were calling me and telling me not to do that.  I suppose there was something in that, because how would they have been able to get me back again afterwards?  There was a clump of tree trunks and stuff in the middle of the river so I clambered on to that and sat there.  Then my Dad came on the scene.  He wasn't very pleased with me, I could tell that, but anyway he came in and started to call me, so I thought maybe I could make it back if I swam around the clump.  Thank Goodness, I made it back and they made a great fuss of me even although they were mad at me for being silly.



On the way back I was a lot more cautious.  I tread gingerly on the banks to see if the sands were firm and I didn't go chasing any more birds.  When the time came to ford the river again, I really thought that discretion was the better part of valour.  We got half way across and then we turned around again because the current was too strong.  We went back the same way we had come in.  I honestly do see that there must be something in this business of "Look before you leap".  I must try and remember that, but I'm sure you all know what it's like: you get so engrossed in running and chasing and playing that you forget all these grown-up ideas - and then it's too late when you remember because the mischief's already done.  Anyway, I really must try a bit harder in future.  

That's about it for this instalment, so if you want any more you know what you have to do!  

I'll sign off now.  I suppose I should use my stage name to sign my literary efforts.

Willowmead Simply a Star
(My name's Simon really.  Who ever heard of a decent dog with a fancy name like that?  I tell you, sometimes these humans are a bit bonky!)

Beardie News From Bo

Beardie News From Bolivia


10.05.1994

Another chronicle from Bolivia.  Last weekend we went on a trip to a city called Santa Cruz which is in eastern Bolivia.  It was quite a while since I had been in town, so we had to get all spruced up for the occasion, and I had to wear my town lead.  It's a funny thing about these leads:  I know that when I am wearing this blue one I have to behave nicely and walk sedately and not run around.  I get to do that with my other lead when we go out for walks where I can't run free.  

We checked into a nice hotel with a lovely garden.  My Dad had arranged this with the owner beforehand, and she said we could come in.  We were the first dogs ever to be allowed to stay at this hotel, but you have to use your influence now and again.  The point is that the owner's father, who was the founder of the hotel, came from the same place as my Dad, so we got to stay in the rooms.  They were very comfortable, I must say,  air-conditioning and all.  The only complaint I have about staying at hotels is that you have to be as quiet as a mouse - no barking or anything like that.  I suppose it's a small sacrifice to make.  If not, we would have had to stay in the car or in the laundry-room.  Better just to keep quiet, I think.

On the Saturday afternoon we went out to a street market.  My Goodness, what a lot of people!  There were thousands of them milling around all over the place.  I just kept my nose well in near my Mum's knees and that way nobody stepped on me.  Poor Paddy (he's a Heinz 57 with some Shih Tsu) is such a midget that he had to be carried around for his own safety.  It was hot too, so we bought a bottle of water and I had a long drink. They sell everything at these markets.  It all comes in as contraband from Brazil.  I was keeping a weather eye out for my Pedigree Chum, but I didn't see any.  Our supply seems to have dried up and now we get this other stuff, which is O.K. but not so appetising as the Pedigree.  

On the Sunday we went along to this very posh school with terrific gardens and sports pitches of every description. There were loads of people there and lo and behold! lots of dogs too.  After a while the penny dropped: this must be one of these dog shows I heard them talking about.  I have been to a little "friendly" show at Montero (not too far from Santa Cruz) and I won first prize, but this looked like it was going to be the real McCoy.  We met Mrs. Gottschalk who had taken care of all the registration procedures for me.  Being country bumpkins we can't do all these things ourselves.  

I can't understand why all these people crowd me out when we go places.  Here they all wanted to know if we had a "pair" and if we were going to have puppies and could they have one if we did.  I don't understand any of this, but I think we are just fine the way we are.  At least three people wanted puppies within the first five minutes.  I suppose it's flattering for me but I don't think it's a good idea.


Well, the show was supposed to begin at midday with a monographic German Shepherd class, but at 12 o'clock everybody upped and went away.  Funny how things never seem to happen they way they say they will.  We just found ourselves a nice breezy place and sat down to wait.  I had a lie down (it was my siesta time) and people-watched under my fringe. Didn't get much peace though, because all these mothers kept coming up and asking if their precious Juanito or whatever could have a photograph taken with me and then I would have to sit up and smile at the camera.  Next thing the newspaper photographer arrived and wanted to take my photo and have my "details".  There was a plus side to all this because my people could see how well I behaved and how badly lots of other dogs behaved.  There were a couple of German Shepherds who just barked and barked for hours and then a Rottweiller spotted them, took an instant dislike to them and started barking.  Unfortunately for us, we were in the middle of the two lots. I just kept a low profile.

Our class was supposed to start at 2p.m. but nobody turned up till that time and then they had to start making all their arrangements, like giving out numbers and things.  Of course the German Shepherds, which should have gone on in the morning, had to go on first, so we all had to wait.  I suppose I should have known better.  After all, this is Bolivia and nothing ever goes smoothly here. Well, it was long after 3p.m. when the German Shepherds started and we were all getting a bit anxious because we have a very long drive back (more than four hours) and we didn't want to be caught on the "road" (that's a bit optimistic) in the dark, particularly the bit that isn't surfaced and is more like the Sahara desert.  

The judge was a lady called Mrs. Blum from Brazil.  There are lots of people of German stock in Brazil.  After a few G.Ss. had paraded about and up and down I could see her shaking her head and she sent them all out again.  They had got all the categories mixed up, so they had to start all over. That happened twice.  I could see she was getting a bit rattled, but she seemed to know her business and was kind to the dogs.  There were lots of German Shepherds so that took a while.

After that, we had Old English Sheepdogs and Caucasian Sheepdogs.  Poor OESs, particularly one of them.  It had been up on that grooming table for hours: backcombing, hair lacquer, preening and brushing and  the owner looked like a right idiot prancing about like a prima donna.  I really don't know how these poor dogs stand it.  They must have the patience of Job.  Don't know that I could be doing with it, though.  

Then it was my turn.  We had done a bit of grooming and so forth ourselves (nothing too exaggerated, mind you), so I was looking  fairly good, no knots or anything like that, nice beard and moustache.  We did our first circuit and then up and down.  The judge spoke to us in Portuguese first of all, but when she heard my Mum speaking to me in Engish she spoke to me in English after that. I didn't jump up on her like I did at that first show, so I must be learning something.  She was quite nice the judge lady, but I don't know why she had to open my mouth and put her fingers in it and rub them around.  Only my people do that to me when I am getting brushed and having my ears and teeth cleaned.  But that was nothing in comparison to what she did next.  Imagine the indignity of it!  She lifted my tail up and began ferreting around underneath it.  I couldn't believe it.  All I can say is that she was gentle and then she smiled at me and asked me to do another circuit.


I was just trotting around minding my own business when I spotted Paddy and my Dad and a couple of friends who had come with us, Filippo and Monica.  I couldn't not acknowledge their presence, could I? so I turned my head around and wagged my tail at them.  I think you're not supposed to do that, but never mind.  All the people were applauding like mad, so I can't have been all that bad.  

It's just a pity that the thing started so late because we had to leave straight after my first performance, so I don't know what would have happened next.  Anyway, I think they were pretty pleased with me and, although I say so myself, I think I put on a passable performance, particularly for a novice.  Maybe we'll go to some more of these events.  I hope they start on time in future.


Willowmead Simply a Star
In future I'll just sign with my real name - Simon.  Hope that's O.K.